The Meskel Holiday

Before coming to Ethiopia, I did a bit of research on the calendar and the Christian feast days that are celebrated here. I came across one that really caught my attention. It was Meskel, or Cross Day.

"Meskel, in the Ethiopian Orthodox and Eritrean Orthodox Churches, is an annual religious holiday commemorating the discovery of the True Cross by Queen Helena (Saint Helena) in the fourth century. Meskel occurs on 17 Meskerem in the Ethiopian calendar (September 27, Gregorian calendar, or September 28 in leap years). "Meskel" is Ge'ez for "cross".

The festival is known as the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross in other Orthodox, Catholic or Protestant churches. The churches that follow the Gregorian calendar celebrate the feast on September 14.

The Meskel celebration includes the burning of a large bonfire, or Demera, based on the belief that Queen Helena (Saint Helena) had a revelation in a dream. She was told that she shall make a bonfire and that the smoke would show her where the true cross was buried. So she ordered the people of Jerusalem to bring wood and make a huge pile. After adding frankincense to it, the bonfire was lit and the smoke rose high up to the sky and returned to the ground, exactly to the spot where the Cross had been buried.

This Demera procession takes place in the early evening the day before Meskel or on the day itself, according to local traditions. The firewood is decorated with [Meskel flowers] prior to the celebration. Afterwards, charcoal from the remains of the fire is collected and used by the faithful to mark their foreheads with the shape of a cross (compare Ash Wednesday).

Edward Ullendorff records a number of beliefs of the meaning of Demera, with some believing that it 'marks the ultimate act in the cancellation of sins, while others hold that the direction of the smoke and the final collapse of the heap indicate the course of future events -- just as the cloud of smoke the Lord over the Tabernacle offered guidance to the children of Israel (Exod.40:34-38).'

One explanation for the high rank this festival has in the church calendar is that it's believed that a part of the true Cross has been brought to Ethiopia from Egypt. It is said to be kept at Amba Geshen, which itself has a cross shape.

According to the Eritrean Orthodox Church, the discovery of the True Cross is traditionally believed to be in March, but Meskel was moved to September to avoid holding a festival during Lent, and because the church commemorating the True Cross in Jerusalem was dedicated during September. Ullendorff speculates that Meskel replaced an older festival, with pagan and Hebraic associations, which he believes received its Christian sanction around the reign of Emperor Amda Seyon in the fourteenth century. 'The most ancient meaning of these feasts -- as was also the case in Israel -- was no doubt seasonal: the month of Meskerem marked the end of the rains, the resumption of work, and the reopening of communications.'" Information taken from here.   More information can be found at this website concerning Meskel Square.

We joined the at least 500,000 people at Meskel Square in Addis Ababa for festivities on the eve of Meskel.  When we arrived it was about 4PM, and people were still pouring in.  That seemed to be an ideal time to arrive since there was still lots of space to be filled in comfortably.  

That particular day was very cold and rainy.  Actually, it was the coldest and wettest day that I've experienced thus far in Ethiopia.  This made the ground in Meskel Square rather soggy and muddy.  It rained on and off and even down poured while we waited for the Demera to ensue.  The time up to the lighting of the huge fire, various Ethiopian Orthodox youth groups performed dances and sang songs for the crowds.  Priests led in different chants appropriate to the feast, and we heard a welcoming speech from an Ethiopian Orthodox Archbishop.  

I really appreciated this bishop's words as he stated (in English - the only English that we heard from the speakers that day, I believe) - and I paraphrase - that all people are welcome for the Meskel celebrations in Ethiopia.  The Cross, after all, was given not only for Ethiopians, but for the entire world.  It is a sign of suffering, death and, most importantly, salvation that has been offered to all mankind, Christians and non-Christians.  Very nice. 

Of course, as with most feast days, there was another influx of sheep in the city along with chickens.  However, one could see bounds of yellow along the streets as well for this festival since many vendors were selling the Meskel daisies.  We even had some waiting on our dining room table, compliments of Mastawit, our cleaning girl.  She is very sweet, and when she feel that we are in need, she brings us flowers to fill any void in that vase.  


The actual Meskel day this year fell on a Wednesday, which is a fasting day for Christians here.  In light of this, they simply celebrated with their kitfo (raw meat), lamb and chicken dishes on Tuesday evening and also on Thursday for some.  Festivities and celebrations for this holiday are not nearly as grandiose as what we experienced for the New Year.  So, we relaxed and stayed around home that day.  That was a very welcome since we've been travelling all over Ethiopia the past few weeks, plus I'll be meandering about between Ethiopia and the U.S. in the next few weeks.  The second half of my PULSE assignment is sure to be a bit more busy.  C'est la vie.

Bahir Dar and Blue Nile Falls

As one can see from my blog postings, we do a lot of weekend travelling, which allows us to take in as much of Ethiopia as possible during our short stint here.  This past weekend, we made our way to a city in the Amhara region of Ethiopia called Bahir Dar.  This particular location is known for its eco-tourism opportunities, in particularly Lake Tana and Blue Nile Falls.  Map below.

Lake Tana is Ethiopia's largest lake, but is not situated in the Rift Valley that we visited the prior weekend.  This lake also has islands throughout that hold Ethiopian Orthodox monasteries and churches that attract tourists from around the world.  


We stayed at the Kuriftu Resort, which is rather luxurious.  I can guarantee that I would never be staying at a place like this in the U.S.  It would simply be too expensive.  The Resort sits on Lake Tana and offers its own car and boat services to Blue Nile Falls and to the Lake Tana monasteries respectively.  We took advantage of these services to their fullest.


When we arrived on Saturday morning, we settled into our rooms and then took an afternoon ride to Blue Nile Falls.  This particular day was market day, but it was a bit special since the following Wednesday would be a huge Ethiopian feast day, Meskel.  In light of this, there were people everywhere  along 30 km dirt road through villages to reach the Falls.  A few sights from the ride to our destination are below.  

Once we reached the place where the car parked, we had another 30 minute walk to actually see these mammoth waterfalls.  The path that we took was anything but an easy one.  It was up and down and rock climbing and battling rain.  Hundreds of people returning home from the local village's market that day were also on the path in their bare feet, journeying the kilometers and kilometers back to their homes with their market purchases.  Of course along with them were their animals - donkeys, cows, sheep, goats.  It was quite the trek to our destination.  Photos below.

In order to reach the Falls, we had to cross the Blue Nile River, which is traversed by the Portuguese Bridge.  The Bridge, built around 1620, is still used by visitors and locals to cross the River.  We eventually made it to the Blue Nile Falls, and we were not disappointed.  Pictures of and from the bridge and of the Falls are below.

The next morning we took a boat ride to a couple monasteries on Lake Tana.  We have seen what seems like a hundred churches/monasteries thus far, so we trekked our ways to them, but did not enter as it cost 50-100 birr for each person to go inside.  One monastery, St. Gabriel's, is on an island that is so strict about female exposure that women are not even permitted to step foot onto that island.  We skipped that one for obvious reasons.  


After checking out monasteries on islands, our cruise captain took us to the source of the Blue Nile River also within the Lake.  There, we found some fishermen in their papyrus boats making their catches of the day.  The original reason that we went there was to see hippopotamuses, since this is where they reside.  However, we went at midday, and it would appear as though they were all underwater to escape the hot African sun.  Very sad.  I am a hippo lover and wanted nothing more than to see one of these beasts in its natural habitat.  I've seen them in zoos, but to see them in Africa at the source of the Blue Nile River would have been amazing.  Oh well.


A few pictures of our boat and monastery tour are below.  

The Kuriftu Resort is probably the nicest resort chain in Ethiopia.  It seemed a bit like a Mexico resort from its appearance.  I would definitely recommend anyone to stay there if they want some time to relax while in Ethiopia.  

Most, but not all, of my favorite people in Ethiopia are the kids.  It is no wonder that so many people from the U.S. are adopting these orphans, because every single one is absolutely adorable.  Sometimes I feel like bringing 10 home with me - 1 for every finger.  This trip to Bahir Dar has proven yet again to have tons of kids.  I think their cute faces provide a great closing to this blog.  Enjoy!